January 10, 2013 · 10:36 am
I had some napa cabbage left over from my New Year’s Day braised cabbage, so I decided to make some soup.
Napa cabbage (also spelled nappa cabbage) is an authentic Chinese cabbage. The name comes from a Japanese word that means something like vegetable greens. So far as I have been able to figure out, the name has nothing to do with the Napa Valley in California. I think that name is probably from the Spanish, meaning an aquifer or gas layer. The taste of the cabbage is milder than regular cabbage, and the leaves are crisper
Regular cabbage dates back to the Egyptians, but probably cabbage heads did not appear on the culinary scene until the twelfth century in Germany. For this recipe, you can use regular cabbage, but I think you will like the flavor better with Chinese cabbage.
The soup makes a simple lunch or dinner. We had the added pleasure of a slice of Srah’s new bread, Douglas fir scented levain topped with fresh butter. A perfect winter-time light lunch
Napa Cabbage and Bread Soup with Croutons and Parmesan Cheese
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- ½ large head napa cabbage, cored and shredded
- 4 cups vegetable stock
- ½ teaspoon beau monde seasoning, or to taste
- salt and pepper to taste
- 2 ½ inch slices good quality white bread cut in ½ inch cubes
- 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
- ¼ cup minced parsley
- In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan or stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onions, stir, and cover. Cook for about 5 minutes or until the onions are wilted and translucent. Do not allow them to brown.
- Add the shredded cabbage to the pot, cover and continue to cook until completely wilted. Do not brown. Then add the vegetable stock, bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. Add the beau monde seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper.Cook for 40 minutes or until the cabbage is soft. Add more liquid if necessary.
- In the meantime, place one of the diced slices of bread on a small baking sheet and dry in the middle of an oven preheated to 225°. Bake for 30 minutes, turning frequently, until the bread cubes are completely dry and crisp. Remove from the oven and set aside.
- When the cabbage is fully cooked and tender, stir in the remaining cubed slice of bread. The bread should dissolve and thicken the soup. Add more liquid if needed.
- When ready to serve, plate the soup in 4 wide soup bowls, top with the croutons, sprinkle with the grated Parmesan cheese and parsley. Serve immediately.
Filed under Food, Photography, Recipes
Tagged as beaumonde seasoning, bread, Chinese cabbage, Douglas fir, levain, Napa CA, napa cabbage, onion, Parmesan cheese, Rich Table, Sarah Rich, vegetable stock, vegetarian
September 13, 2012 · 1:56 pm
A few weeks ago, I bought a loaf of potato-sesame bread from a baker at the local farmers market. It had a nutty flavor, and the crunch of the sesame seeds gave it a unique bite. While waiting in line to pay, I heard the baker tell another customer that the bread was the first he learned to bake when he was in a monastery many years ago.
Later I bought another loaf of the same bread. It had lumps of whole potato – not nearly as good as the first loaf. That made me think that I wanted to bake my own version. I looked in vain for a recipe. There were lots of breads made with potato water, some made with potato sourdough starter, some with instant potatoes, and several with potato flour. There were none with mashed potatoes, which sounded to me like a good beginning.
Then I thought, “monastery – bread”. The only connection I could make was the classic baking book by Edward Espe Brown called The Tassajara Bread Book, Shambhala Publications, 1970. I checked my copy, and sure enough there were recipes for sesame bread and potato bread using mashed potatoes. There was no recipe for potato-sesame bread, though that was alright because I had already begun to work out my own version. The recipe follows. It is an easy bread to make, with a fine crumb and a chewy crust from the enrobement of sesame seeds. Since potatoes contain no gluten, I have added gluten powder to promote rising and good texture.
The finished loaves
- In a medium saucepan over high heat, put the cubed potatoes in plenty of water to cover and bring to a boil. Continue to boil the potatoes until they are done and a sharp fork pierces them easily, about 30 minutes. Do not add salt to the boiling water.
- When the potatoes are done, drain them, reserving 2 cups of the potato water. Pass the drained potatoes through a potato ricer or food mill and set aside. There should be about 2 cups of mashed potatoes. Let the potato water cool enough that it is warm but not hot.
- In a large ceramic bowl, combine 2 cups of potato water with sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Then sprinkle the dry yeast on the surface of the mixture and let stand for 5 minutes. Then stir so that the yeast is dissolved.
- Stir in the salt, melted butter, and gluten until well combined.
- One cup at a time, stir in 3½ cups of flour, combining thoroughly after each addition.
- Knead the dough in the bowl for about one minute. Then turn out onto a flat surface covered with the remaining one cup of flour. Knead for about 10 minutes until the extra flour is incorporated and you have a smooth dough. The dough should be sticky. This will make it difficult to work with, but too much flour will make the finished bread too firm and tough.
- Form the dough into a ball, lightly oil the surface, and place it in a covered clean bowl or bread-proofing box.
- Let rise in a warm place until the dough is doubled, about 2 hours. Punch down the risen dough and let rise a second time until doubled, about 1 hour.
- Divide the dough into two equal portions. Shape each into a ball and place in a shallow pan or dish of sesame seeds. Sprinkle additional sesame seeds on the top of each round until completely covered with the seeds, and shape into a rough loaf.
- Place each shaped, sesame-coated loaf in a well-greased 8½ x 4½ inch bread pan. Cover with a clean cloth and let rise for about 30 minutes.
- In the meantime, preheat the oven to 375° F.
- Bake the loaves in the middle of the preheated oven for 45 minutes. Test for doneness by thumping the bottom for a clear sound.
- Turn the finished loaves onto a cooling rack and cool.
Filed under Food, Photography, Recipes
Tagged as bread flour, Edward Espe Brown, mashed potatoes, potato flour, potato-sesame bread, sesame seeds, sourdough starter, Tassajara Bread Book, vegetarian
May 26, 2012 · 7:58 am
When our son, Peter, was in graduate school, he stayed in a run-down house with a number of Colombiano students. The house was on Hillmont Street, so they named the house “Casa Hillmont”. During his time at Casa Hillmont, Peter’s Spanish skills improved markedly, but he also learned to cook Colombian comfort food. One favorite was and is tostones. Tostones are the one way I know of to use plantain. This banana relative usually sits neglected in the produce section of the grocery store. Neglect those plantains no longer because tostones are easy to make, delicious as a snack, and a great substitute for corn chips with guacamole.
Plantain slices ready to fry
First frying of plantain slices
Smashing a cooked plantain slice with a can
Tostones ready to serve
Guacamole is a Central American dish which has been imported to the American Southwest and eventually to the whole world. Probably that’s because it is easy to make The mellow flavor of the obligate avocado balanced against citrus and chile accents is hard to resist, especially with a corn chip and cold margarita in hand. According to Diane Kennedy, the legendary Mexican cookbook writer, the word comes from two Nahuatl (Aztec) words, ahuacatl (avocado) and molli (mixture). Other authorities say that the word ahuacatl actually means “testicle” referring to the shape of the fruit and its tendency to grow in pairs. More than that, the Mesoamericans reportedly believed that eating the fruit contributed to sexual prowess. Those interesting facts aside, it is easy to eat a bowl of fresh guacamole by oneself.
Ingredients for my version of guacamole
There are probably as many recipes for guacamole as there are cooks who make it. Most traditional recipes include chopped tomato. For me, the version which tends to be favored in Santa Fe is the best. It uses coarsely mashed avocado, lime juice, a little chopped onion, salt, and pepper. Garlic and cilantro are acceptable additions, and chile depends upon your tolerance for heat. I do balk at one addition that you sometimes see – mayonnaise. The Aztecs never used mayonnaise! Honestly, I prefer guacamole with a kick, but because my wife has zero tolerance for chile, I make it without any zest and then sneak a little chile into my portion.
Guacamole in a molcajete ready to serve
The recipes to follow should be enough for two people. For larger groups, just increase proportions accordingly.
- cooking oil
- 1 ripe plantain, unpeeled and cut in ½ inch slices (about 12 slices)
- Add the oil to a ½ inch depth in a heavy pan and heat over a medium-high flame. Do not let it smoke
- Peel the plantain slices and place them in the heated oil. Brown lightly, turn, and brown the other side
- Remove the slices to absorbent paper, and using the flat end of a large can, smash each of the cooked slices
- Immediately return the slices to the heated oil and continue frying them until they are browned on both sides
- Remove again to the absorbent paper, sprinkle with salt, and serve while still warm
- 1 large, ripe avocado
- juice of 1 fresh lime
- 2 scallions, trimmed and chopped finely
- salt and pepper to taste
- 1 small tomato, peeled, seeded, and chopped (optional)
- cilantro leaves, chopped (optional)
- hot sauce (eg Tabasco or Cholula) to taste (optional)
- 1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped (optional)
- Place the avocado flesh in a medium bowl and mash coarsely with a table fork
- Add the lime juice and combine with the mashed avocado.
- Stir in the chopped scallions, adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, and serve
- Add optional ingredients according to your own taste
Filed under Food, Photography, Recipes
Tagged as avocado, Cholula, Colombia, food, guacamole, lime, mexican cookbook, Peter Williams, photography, plantain, Santa Fe, Tabasco, tostones, vegetarian