June 24, 2019 · 2:37 pm
I have been away from my blog for a long time. We have been doing a lot of traveling, grandchild visiting and not much cooking, but frankly, I had run out of new things to write about – especially recipes. However, on our most recent visit, Sarah introduced us to a condiment that I had never knowingly tried. It is a secret ingredient at Rich Table and RT Rotisserie, although it appears in the Rich Table cookbook. Sarah calls it shiro dashi vinaigrette, and she makes enough at one time to keep in the refrigerator to season salads, noodles, and whatever needs some added flavor. Shiro dashi adds the umami that the Japanese are so good at incorporating into their foods. Shiro dashi is actually a concentrated soup and sauce base. It may be available in your local large grocery stores, especially those with a section for Asian foods. In our vicinity we are fortunate to have Asian, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Persian, Chinese, etc. supermarkets, so it is easy to find unusual ingredients. I found a bottle at the Korean market. The recipe for the vinaigrette is simple, so I have followed Sarah’s lead and keep a jar made up and in the refrigerator.
Two lemons, juiced
Now, on to tuna and egg salad. Who needs a recipe for that? I have made it for years beginning when I was a teenage short-order cook. The version at that café was homogenized so finely that it looked like – well, let’s just say it was not appetizing. BUT it kept well for a week on the shelf in the walk-in. To my way of thinking, in a well-prepared tuna salad the canned tuna should be in identifiable chunks as should the egg. (Fresh tuna salad is another story with its own guidelines for preparation.) There also must be chopped celery and scallions – again, identifiable. Then there needs to be something sour. I like chopped salad olives because the pimentos add color, but chopped dill pickles or capers also work. If you have other favorites, add them. Some folks add chopped nuts and/or apples. I am not a fan of those, but if you like them, add them, or whatever else pleases your taste.
Finally, there is the choice of dressing. The standard is bottled mayonnaise, but usually there is way too much, and before long it turns soupy. Homemade mayonnaise is delicious, but too much trouble for the little amount that you use. I prefer just enough French vinaigrette to moisten the mix. It brings great flavor and is light. That made it easy to take the next step and give shiro dashi vinaigrette a try. I am glad. In the future, I won’t use anything else.
You can complete things with a sandwich: your best bread, a leaf of crisp lettuce, a slice or two of fresh tomato, and some avocado. If you decide to go full steam, moisten the bread with shiro dashi vinaigrette instead of butter or mayonnaise. The perfect lunch.
Small dill pickles
Shiro Dashi Tuna and Egg Salad
Shiro Dashi Vinaigrette
- ½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (2 large lemons should work)
- 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1½ tablespoons shiro dashi
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
- salt to taste
- Put all the ingredients in a quart Mason jar. Cover tightly and shake vigorously until will mixed.
- Use as you would vinaigrette. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 1 week. Use on any dish that would benefit from some flavor – salads, soups, cooked vegetables, etc.
Shiro Dashi Tuna and Egg Salad
- 1 can tuna (7 ounces), well drained
- 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped coarsely
- 3 scallions, green part included, sliced finely
- 1 stalk celery, chopped into 1/8-1/4 inch pieces
- 3 small dilll pickles, chopped
- 3 to 6 generous tablespoons shiro dashi vinaigrette, according to taste
- salt and pepper
- In a medium bowl, mash together the tuna and eggs, using a table fork, until they are well broken up but still recognizable. Gently stir in the sliced scallions, chopped celery, and chopped pickles.
- Add shiro dashi just to moisten the mixture and according to your taste.
- Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Filed under Food, Photography, Recipes
Tagged as hard boiled eggs, mayonnnaise, Rich Table, RT Rotisserie, Sarah, Sarah Rich, shiro dashi, tuna, vinaigrette
May 28, 2016 · 9:04 am
Crab Louie (or Louis or Louise depending on the reference) is a traditional salad that for many years was synonymous with elegant luncheons. Over the years it has lost some of its glamor and has fallen off many a menu. It has even disappeared from contemporary cookbooks although you can find the recipe in the Joy of Cooking and Craig Claiborne’s New York Times Cookbook as well as on the internet. Especially during Dungeness crab season, Crab Louie is still a favorite in San Francisco. Rich Table has had their version in the past. San Francisco may have a predilection for the dish as some sources say it was invented at either Solari’s restaurant or the fabled St. Francis Hotel a few years after the San Francisco earthquake. Other sources place its origin in a Seattle country club or Portland or even Spokane. Still, it is considered a West Coast salad (I guess far-inland Spokane still qualifies as West Coast.)
There are as many variations of the salad as there are recipes, but there are only a few essentials. First, naturally, is crab – although you can add or substitute shrimp or you can use ersatz Krab. Second is lettuce, but your choices include iceberg, Bibb, red leaf, and Romaine among others. Finally, there is the sauce which is a close kin to Thousand Islands dressing usually, though not necessarily, without the pickle relish and with chili sauce instead of ketchup. Most, but not all recipes include hardboiled eggs, and asparagus spears are among the most common additions. Beyond that, everything seems to be fair game, including fresh fruit as described in the Commander’s Palace cookbook.
Over time, many renditions of Crab Louie have begun to resemble a Cobb salad or salade Niçoise. Perhaps that’s part of the reason that the salad has lost its appeal. That’s too bad, because it is delicious and easy to make. Here’s one version in which the most challenging step is to make the home-made mayonnaise. Of course, you can just use bottled mayonnaise, and that makes it even easier, but the hand-made stuff improves the taste with only a few minutes of extra effort.
My image of the finished salad shows some sliced hard-boiled eggs with a faint green ring of shame. That’s usually the result of boiling the eggs too hard and/or too long, but it can also occur when the boiled eggs have sat in the refrigerator for seveal days. That’s what happened to the ones in the image. When they were freshly cooked, the yolks were perfectly golden yellow and silky. Sorry about that, but the goof has inspired me to write later about hard boiling eggs. Post to follow.
- 2 egg yolks, room temperature
- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
- 1 cup canola oil (or other neutral-flavored vegetable oil)
- salt and pepper (your choice: black for flavor but black specks, white for color but off-flavor, red for a hint of spiciness. Or use a little of all of them)
- 2 tablespoons fresh, strained lemon juice
- In a medium bowl and using a wire whisk, beat the eggs until well mixed. Add the mustard and continue to whisk until well-combined.
- Add the oil very slowly, a few drops at a time, while whisking continuously. Make sure each addition of oil is incorporated before adding more oil. Addition of oil should take several minutes.
- After all of the oil has been added, continue to whisk for a minute or two before adding the lemon juice. Whisk until the juice has been completely incorporated and the sauce is smooth and glistening.
Crab Louie Sauce
- 1 batch (a little over 1 cup) mayonnaise (see above)
- ¼ cup chill sauce
- ¼ cup scallions, including green tops, finely chopped
- 3 snacking peppers, seeded and finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
- 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
- salt and pepper
- Combine all of the ingredients in a medium bowl, correcting the seasoning with salt and pepper.
- Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 2 days.
- Romaine lettuce, washed
- 1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed, steamed for about 5 minutes, and chilled
- 1 pound crab, cooked and picked over for cartilage
- Crab Louie sauce
- 3 hard-boiled eggs, chilled, peeled, and sliced
- Arrange several whole Romaine leaves in a serving bowl. Top with coarsely chopped Romaine.
- Arrange chilled asparagus on the chopped lettuce.
- Arrange the cooked crab on the asparagus, top with sauce to your preference, and arrange sliced hard-boiled eggs around the edge.
- Serves 2 to 4.
Filed under Food, Photography, Recipes
Tagged as asparagus, chili sauce, Cobb salad, crab Louie, Dungeness crab, hard boiled eggs, mayonnaise, Rich Table, salade Niçoise, San Francisco
August 9, 2012 · 4:39 pm
Another classic composed salad for summer, this version has its origins in Volume I of Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child and friends.
Instead of pasta, rice, or quinoa serving as the base, French-style potato salad pulls everything together. Haricots verts, hard-boiled eggs, ripe tomatoes, black olives, and canned tuna are essential. If you can find good-quality Spanish anchovies, they should also be included, but beyond that you are limited only by your imagination.
Salade Niçoise can be served chilled or at room temperature, but it goes without saying that it needs a chilled white wine and crusty French bread to be a complete summer meal.
French Potato Salad
- 2 medium russet potatoes
- 3 quarts boiling salted water
- ½ cup dry white wine
- ¾ cup vinaigrette
- 6 scallions, cleaned and cut into ¼ inch slices, including the green tops
- handful parsley leaves, chopped finely
- Add the unpeeled potatoes to the boiling water. Return to the boil and cook until the potatoes are done and can be pierced easily with a sharp fork, about 30 minutes.
- Drain the potatoes and cool until they can be handled. Peel by pulling the potato skin off with a sharp paring knife.
- Slice the potatoes into ¼ inch thick rounds, return to the dry pot, and pour in the wine. Stir gently until the wine is completely absorbed.
- Add the vinaigrette, scallions, and parsley and stir gently until well combined, being careful not to break up the potatoes too much. Chill until ready to compose the salad.
- ¼ pound haricot verts, trimmed and blanched (good green beans if haricot verts unavailable)
- 12 very thin stalks asparagus, trimmed and blanched
- ½ cup vinaigrette
- 1 small head, butter lettuce, washed and the leaves separated
- 1 batch French potato salad (see above)
- 2 ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into wedges
- 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut into wedges
- 5 ounce can best quality solid albacore tuna in water, drained
- 14 ounce can black olives, drained
- Spanish anchovies (optional)
- Arrange the lettuce leaves in a large salad bowl
- Heap the potato salad in the middle of the bowl
- Dress the beans and asparagus lightly with vinaigrette and then arrange them across the top of the potato salad
- Sprinkle the olives over the top of the potato salad and arrange the tomatoes and eggs around the edge.
- Arrange the tuna, flaked gently with a fork, in the middle of the salad.
- Serve immediately. This will serve two, perhaps with some leftovers.